Etch bleach is a very specific type of process, and the results
can be impressive, or boring if overdone. The end picture really
does depend on your imagination. The method is set out below....

     THE ETCH BLEACH PROCESS


The  Etch Bleach process is a useful and versatile tool for
the  keen monochrome worker. First, a broad description. A
monochrome print is produced on a glossy, resin coated 
paper. It must be a resin coated paper for the method to 
work.

The  print is finished to a dry state as usual, as the etch
bleaching  can  be  done at any time and in  daylight.  
Subject matter is best kept simple as the process does not  
take kindly to masses of detail. Experience will show  the  
best type of print to use - it is quite feasable to print a 
slide, producing a negative print to start on !!

The print is immersed in the etch bleach solution, which 
literally removes all the emulsion which was darker than a  
certain shade of grey.  That lighter than that shade will 
remain on the print.

The print is swabbed with cotton wool to remove any loose
material, and the print washed - and dried for later if  
desired.

The  next stage can be to re-develop the print in any print
developer. Any tones remaining will return usually along 
with a sabbatier line effect. (The sabbatier effect is  
normally a result  of a process called `solarisation` when 
the subject finishes up outlined in a black line.) The print 
should then be fixed. It should also be  fixed if no  
re-development took place. All of this can be in full light.

The  print can then be immersed in any dye - Dylon is good  
- and  washed briefly. The result is a coloured picture  
where emulsion remained, but pure white elsewhere as only 
the water proof coating,  which wouldn`t absorb dye, would 
remain. It is best to swab the print dry with kitchen roll 
or similar as the  emulsion will will easily scratch at this 
stage.

The resulting picture can be very impressive indeed,  but 
does  depend  very much on the original choice of subject.  
Light areas  on the original will be light on the final 
print. Thus a print from a transparency will finish as a 
positive etch bleach. i.e. A sky will print black, and the 
etch solution will remove all blacks.  The sky will thus be 
a clear white on the final picture.

Colours can be mixed, or selective dying can be attempted  
using swabs, or blocking out with rubber solution. The end 
product  depends entirely on the imagination.


MORE DETAILED METHOD.


Select your slide or negative and produce a strong print 
with  good blacks  and whites.  Finish it in the normal way 
to a dry  picture. Any of the resin coated papers appear  to  
work, including the variable contrast types, which allow 
better contrast control.

The etch bleach solution cannot be bought, so you have to 
make  it up yourself,  or get a chemist to do it for you.  
All the chemicals are available from chemists although some 
may need to be ordered.

The  chemicals consist of two separate solutions which 
should  only be mixed together just before use. ( The A and 
B solutions can  be made up at any time and keep 
indefinately. )


SOLUTION A

Copper Sulphate                         60 Grammes.
Citric Acid                             75 Grammes.
Potassium Bromide                        4 Grammes
Water to a total of...                  500 ccs.


SOLUTION B

Hydrogen Peroxide                       20 Vol. Strength.

(This is available at this strength directly from chemists - 
it`s used as a hair bleach. )


Always mix chemicals in the order given. Make sure each 
chemical is fully  dissolved before adding the next and use 
warm water to aid dissolving. Treat all chemicals with 
respect.( Potassium Bromide is what is reputed to have been 
put in soldiers tea to keep their mind off the opposite    
sex ! ) None of the above are really dangerous but don`t  
lick  fingers and always wash hands and the work  area  when
finished.  I store the made up solutions in re-labelled and  
washed developer and fixer bottles.

Mix equal parts of A and B just before use, and if your skin 
is  a bit sensitive,  use rubber gloves.  Hydrogen Peroxide 
can be an irritant.

Warm the solution to a MINIMUM of 50 deg. C.  It only works 
when at that sort of temperature. I use an old cooking basin 
to warm it over the gas ring as it is usually necessary to 
re - warm it  during the session.

Wet the  print to be bleached using warm water, to retain  
temperatures, and immerse it in the bleach. In a few seconds 
the image will disappear. Using a cotton wool swab, wipe the 
print surface whilst  it  is still in the bleach. If all is 
well, areas of the emulsion will be seen coming off looking 
much like frogspawn !

Remove the print and rinse in warm water.  Continue swabbing 
GENTLY until  no more emulsion comes off. At this point 
there are  various possibilities. It can be dried and stored 
for another day if desired.


To prepare the final image, and if it is to be just colour, 
fix the print. If some detail is required, then make sure 
that the bleached print is well exposed to light and immerse 
in a normal print developer. Tonal areas remaining will 
re-develop. When no further action takes place, wash and fix 
the print.

This stage could be an end product as it can look quite 
impressive. I have,  on occasions,  re-photographed the 
print at this point to produce a master negative for future 
use.

To add colour, take the fixed and dried print and place it 
in a suitable dye. All  the  emulsion  that remains will 
take on  that colour. Areas stripped of emulsion will remain 
white.  Remove the print from the dye and rinse briefly.  
Swab to clear the white areas and dry your masterpiece.